Adrian Wu Fall 12

Adrian Wu perplexes me. Not because I don't comprehend what he's doing as a designer but because of the mixed signals he gives. Walking into his Fall 12 collection, you're greeted by two balloon trees and playful background music. You'd be mistaken to think you're in for a youthful and summer collection

And that's just the tip of the confusion ice berg.

Adrian Wu "advocates his passion for history through his work" and "only wishes to shine a light on social issues." If you're already scratching your head from the artistic jargon stop because you might develop a bald spot by the end of this.

For Fall 12, he says he was inspired by the south of France and also by Parisian and American politics. A wide point of reference and an ambitious undertaking. It would've been great if he talked the talk but the execution underwhelms the explanation. Instead Wu bewilders and sends down one after the other, multiple versions of over sized bulbous dresses with bidet dots. Sure, inspirations should never be literal but at the same time, it shouldn't get lost in translation.

And hey, maybe I just didn't see the references but ultimately great design speaks for itself sans explanation. Or V for Vendetta masks.

Forget about the inspiration mumbo jumbo and still this collection falls short. Going in not knowing anything about the designer and you'd think the concept was country couture a la Rodarte but instead it felt like it was just trying to be country couture. And really, is anything worse than something trying to be something that it's not?

Pretentiousness is the biggest issue with Adrian Wu. I get it. He's a young designer proving himself to be "ahead of his time". Instead he comes off like a twelve years old insisting he's thirteen and uncomfortable in his own skin. The talent is there. There is no need for Wu to be overambitious and bite more than he can chew.